Continuous or Rapid Blinking LED / Beep Alert:

• What it means: Aquaguard systems feature smart service indicators. A flashing Red/Yellow light or rhythmically repeating alarm typically signals an expired filter lifespan, UV lamp failure, or an internal sensor fault.

• What should be done: Check raw water supply first. If input is clear, contact a technician to run an onboard circuit diagnostic, replace the designated expired filter cartridge, and reset the internal micro-controller filter timer.

Drastically Reduced Water Flow (Trickle at Faucet):

• What it means: Clogged i-Filter (sediment) or Chemi-Block (activated carbon), scaled RO membrane, or a failing high-pressure pump output pressure falling below 60 PSI.

• What should be done: Perform a line-by-line pressure drop test across each stage using a pressure gauge to identify the clogged component, then replace the specific cartridge or repair the pump.

Unpleasant Metallic, Saline, or Sour Taste:

• What it means: Depletion of the Taste Adjuster/Chemi-Block media, high TDS leakage through a ruptured RO membrane, or exhaustion of the Active Copper/Zinc post-filter stage.

• What should be done: Test feed-water TDS versus product-water TDS using a calibrated digital TDS meter. If rejection rate drops below 85–90%, replace the RO membrane and recalibrate the manual/automatic TDS adjuster valve.

Booster Pump Runs Continuously Without Stopping:

• What it means: The High Pressure Switch (HPS) has failed to trip, the tank float valve sensor is damaged, or the RO membrane is so severely choked that permeate flow is insufficient to reach shut-off pressure (usually 30–40 PSI in the tank line).

• What should be done: Test the HPS circuit continuity with a multimeter, check tank weight/water level, and evaluate permeate output volume per minute.

Continuous Drain Water Discharge When Purifier is Turned Off:

• What it means: The inlet Solenoid Valve (SV) diaphragm is stuck open due to debris buildup or electrical failure, letting mains water feed directly to the drain line even when the storage tank is full.

• What should be done: Disassemble and clean the solenoid valve orifice or replace the 24V/36V SV unit completely.

Water Leakage from Bottom Housing or Tube Fittings:

• What it means: O-ring degradation due to high input pressure spikes, micro-cracks in filter sumps/housings from water hammer effects, or compromised quick-connect push-fit collets.

• What should be done: Isolate the main water feed valve, identify the leaking push-fit elbow or housing seal, replace worn O-rings, and install an input Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) if inlet pressure exceeds 30 PSI.

Purifier Fails to Turn On (No Display Lights or Sound):

• What it means: Blown fuse in the SMPS (Switch Mode Power Supply) adapter due to voltage fluctuations, failure of the Low Pressure Switch (LPS) due to inadequate feed pressure (<6 PSI), or a damaged main circuit PCB.

• What should be done: Verify wall outlet voltage, test SMPS DC output voltage (typically 24V or 36V DC), and bypass the LPS temporarily to check if low inlet water pressure is preventing system boot.

Cloudy or Milky Looking Purified Water:

• What it means: Entrapped air bubbles inside newly installed post-filters (micro-bubbles), or calcium carbonate precipitation caused by alkaline filter mineral enrichment.

• What should be done: Let the water stand in a clear glass for 60 seconds. If it clears from the bottom up, it is harmless micro-bubbles requiring system flushing; if it settles at the bottom as white residue, inspect and recalibrate the mineralizer module.